(Ir)Reverend Ramblings

It is Maundy Thursday, the day before Good Friday, the beginning of the Holy Weekend of Easter. Since the fourth century, Christians have gathered to mark Maundy Thursday as a time of remembering the Last Supper and the betrayal of Jesus.

Maundy comes from the Latin mandatum novum which means ‘a new commandment’. The ‘new commandment’ comes from the scripture reading we will hear tonight which tells of Jesus washing the disciples feet as preparation for their Passover Meal together and then instructing them to love one another. He uses the action to remind them of servant hood and being humble before another.

Washing feet is a liturgical act that has never caught on in the United Church! I guess we feel a bit squeamish about baring our toes in church and then having someone else touch them. Honestly, I feel a bit squeamish about doing that with anyone let alone another member of my congregation. But the idea of that kind of humility, that kind of vulnerability, that kind of service and maybe even that kind of squeamishness is what Jesus was on about when he talked to the disciples that evening around the dinner table.

I will be preaching about service tonight at the Maundy Thursday service. I wonder how the words will fall on the ears of the people who gather? What does it mean to you to hear the call of Jesus to love one another?

Catching up while coping with jet-lag does present some challenges and/or moments of hilarity. On Sunday morning I struggled to get names straight and sometimes I gapped completely on who I was talking to or what I was talking about. One of the things I love about the people in my church community is how forgiving they are and how understanding and supportive they can be!

Speaking of community we had another wonderful event last evening that fostered community while generating a little money for the church. This was our second ‘fun and fund-raising” dinner. Our resident kitchen miracle-worker, Janice, cooked up enough lasagne for 70 people. She recruited lots of helpers to make sure the work was shared about and at 5 pm the auditorium was filled with the hum of happy conversation while people chowed down on a delicious dinner.

Church dinners have a long, long history and meet needs on several levels. There are folks who love to give to the church by sharing their gifts and abilities. For decades working in the church kitchen has been a way for people to offer their gifts to the community. Secondly, it is a good way to raise a little money. People have to eat and it seems most people don’t mind paying for a good meal. The hard part, as I see it is getting the church to recognize that they can charge a fair price for the food. So often churches want to undersell and underrate their product. Finally, a church dinner is a great way to provide an opportunity to build community and give people a space to visit and connect. Last night the food was great but so was the networking of friends old and new, during and after dinner. People love the opportunity to visit and last night the BUC auditorium was a place where that could happen.

I am so grateful to the volunteers who came out last night to make such a wonderful evening. We raised a $1000 but more importantly we raised the feeling of community.

We arrived safely in Toronto after an 11 hour flight. The flight “inservice” offered lots of movie options but even that can be tiring while sitting in cramped seats for those many hours. It was good to collect our luggage and head for home. Farewells were said quickly by the luggage carousel as the 30 travellers headed off in different directions across Southern Ontario.

Now the washing machine is humming and I am sorting through souvenirs and photos. Here are some memories of Turkey that will linger …

-singing Holy, Holy, Holy in the lasting remains of an ancient church building
-sipping steaming Turkish coffee
-floating in a balloon above Cappadocia’s fairy chimneys
-soaking in the thermal hot springs at Pamukkale
-bartering with carpet salesmen for of beautiful Turkish carpet
-communion in the open air chapel of Mary’s home
-standing on the beach at Gallipoli
-pushing through the crowd at the Spice Bazaar
-enjoying a bowl of yogurt soup
-seeing the landscape quilted with crops and orchards
-watching a belly dancer!
-the Whirling Dervishes in their whirling meditation
-the holy stillness of the ruins of Laodicea
-mosaics floors in Ephesus
-sampling Turkish Delight
-thirty wonderful friends to travel with

I was wrong when I wrote in my last post that Ephesus would be the last of the seven churches we would visit – I forgot about Pergamum! But i get ahead of myself.

We did visit Ephesus of course. We started the morning with a simple communion service at the site called the Home of the Virgin Mary. It was another stellar spring day, the sun was shining,the birds were singing, and it was , as one of our group described a thin place. As we said Psalm 23 together and heard Paul’s words (to the Corinthians) about the origins of communion it was a moment vibrant with the Holy.

Ephesus is a huge and busy site – we saw lots of tourists there. We have been spoiled foremost of the trip often being the only group on the site. We had the added treat of viewing the terraced house. These are the ruins showing where the wealthy people of Ephesus would have lived with their beautiful mosaic floors and lovely frescoes painted on the walls. It was wonderful to imagine the life lived those centuries ago. Of course we did our group photo in front of the library there; what an amazing ruin that is. And the group photo, compliments of Rostad Tours gives us a wonderful reminder of our terrific group of travellers.

After our stay in Izmer we travelled north and east along the coast and saw, yet again, just what a scenic and fertile land Turkey is. Field after field of fruit and olive groves, lots of canola and grain crops,and on every hillside flocks of sheep and goats.

We spent the morning exploring the ancient city of Pergamum. It is a fine example of Jesus’ saying, “A city set on a hill cannot be hid.”
We took (at some moments, a harrowing) taxi ride up the side of the mountain to get to the site. More beautiful ruins showing the ancient temple, the altar to Zeus (which led John to chastise Pergamum in the book of Revelations) and of course the amphitheatre where the seats are on such an incline it was almost dizzying to navigate down the steps.

We then visited the site of ancient Troy – yes there is a wooden horse there! The visit was interesting but we were getting weary and for the one afternoon of our entire trip we had rain so that visit was brief !

We shifted to modern history when yesterday morning we stopped at the beach known as Gallipoli. I found this stop very moving to think of the many, many lives lost both Turkish lives and members of the Allied Forces. Preparations were underway for Anzac Day later this month when the area will be overrun with visitors from Australia and New Zealand. Newfoundlanders were in this World War 1 battle too and many lost their lives. It was a solemn drive as the bus made its way to the top of the hill that still shows the trenches we the battle was won, or lost, depending on your perspective.

We then sped along the highway catching glimpses of the beautiful coast line, until we arrived back in Istanbul. Arriving in time for a quick stop at the Egyptian Spice Bazaar and one last shop at the Grand Bazaar.

At dinner last night we said our farewell to our great tour guide, Yasar. He told us to urge all our friends to visit Turkey and to come back again. Many of us agreed that it is a country to vast and with too rich a history to take in in one visit.

We left Antayla Sunday morning and had the most beautiful drive as we headed north east to Pamukkale. We had to cross through the mountains again although this passage was not as high or as rugged. What surprised me was that in every valley where there was soil there were crops growing. Small fields with hay or grain or vegetables.

We made a stop at Aphrodisias which is one of the oldest sacred sites in Turkey, dating back as early as 5800 BC. There we saw magnificent marble sculpture and the site where the Temple of Aphrodite later became a Christian basilica. It was impressive for its history but also for its beautiful setting. The plain were is is situated is surrounded by a ring of mountains and hills. The countryside in the vicinity is farmland producing almonds, oranges, apricots, pomegranates, figs, and cherries.

Our two night stay was a lovely hotel in a very rural area at Pamukkale – a spot known for its spectacular white travertine terraces. The calcium rich water has formed shelves, pools and stalactites which form a huge white wall above the town. We soaked our feet in the pools on the travertine. Once back at the hotel we were able to soak our whole bodies in the hotel’s warm thermal pools.

Yesterday morning we toured Laodicea – this was fascinating because it is one of the seven churches mentioned in the Book of Revelation but also because it is an active archeological restoration. We saw them working at the recreation of the ancient Roman structures and saw the development as the ancient streets are dug out of the soil! This town dates back as far as 261 BCE. In the early centuries after Christ it became one of the chief seats of Christianity.

Today we drove to Izmir which in Biblical times was known as Smyrna. This city is one of the oldest on the Mediterranean Basin (established around 5000 years ago) but today it is a bustling, active, city – the third largest city in Turkey. In the first century CE it became the earliest centre of Christianity.

Driving to Izmir took us through hectares and hectares of vineyards and olive groves. We stopped at the ruins of the church of Philadelphia, one of the Seven churches of Revelation and then at Sardis where we saw not only the ruins of a Christian church (we sang Holy Holy Holy there) but also the ruins of what had been a large and active synagogue in ancient times.

Tonight and tomorrow night we are staying a a very posh hotel and so are feeling extremely spoiled. Just the same we are starting to think of home as we know the tour is coming into its last few days. We are looking forward to tomorrow when we tour Ephesus – that will be that last of the Seven Churches we will visit.

As I said in my last blog (written this morning) today was our day to explore Antalya. What a beautiful, bustling, holiday, port city. Our bus delivered us to the Antalya Museum which holds one of the most beautiful museum displays I have ever seen. There are rooms of magnificent Greek and Roman sculptures brought from the ruins of digs in the area. It was stunning to walk into room after room of incredible sculptures. There is also a moving display of Christian artifacts from the 6th century. There are many more artifacts that were found in that discovery but they were taken out of the country and are in a museum in washington DC. Needless to say, that display notes that discussions continue to try and get them back to their home in Turkey.

After a delightful morning in the museum, and the required time in the museum shop finding treasures to take home, we headed to the downtown area where we were dropped off by the Harbour. Several of us ate a relaxing lunch together in an open air market while others found a delicious lunch down by the waterfront.

Lunch was followed by a couple of hours strolling the market and the harbour where more bargains were found and turkish ice cream was enjoyed. We got back to the hotel around 4 pm which gave us time to either rest, or, as many did, sit by the salt water pool or walk down to the seashore in front of our hotel. The water is cold but several brave souls went for a swim (NOT me!!).

Tonight will be dinner at the delicious buffet offered by the hotel and then tomorrow we will be up and on the bus for an 8:30 departure to Pamukkale by way of Aphrodisias. Pamukkale was known as Laodicea and is one of the seven churches mentioned in the Book of Revelation.

Here I sit in my 8th floor hotel room looking out at the Mediterranean Sea and it is a beautiful morning. Cliff swallows are darting and soaring outside my window and the morning haze is lifting. We are set to enjoy a day in Antayla.

This section of the Mediterranean coast is known as the ‘Turkish Riviera’ and it is beautiful. This sea port has played an important part in our biblical history as this is a port city that Saint Paul would have sailed to and from on his missionary journeys.

Yesterday we travelled from Konya through snow capped mountains and rich farm land. The mountain pass was spectacular – we have a great bus driver. The crops we saw growing included oranges, pomegranates, strawberries, almonds, lemons, and field crops like wheat, alfalfa, cabbage and spinach.

Our stops yesterday included ancient ruins at Side, Aspendos and Perge. Perge was amazing. The ruins went on and on – showing the remnants of a large bustling city. It developed from a Hellenistic hilltop settlement to a proper Roman city. The ruins show quite clearly where the agora (market) stood with its many stalls and shops. There is also a wonderful example, through foundational ruins, of the Roman bath. Saint Paul visited this city and preached here. (Acts 13:13 & 14:25). So we are moving into the section of our tour that connects with our Christian story.

I forgot to mention in yesterday’s blog about our experiencing the Sufi religious expression of “Whirling Dervishes”. This was a powerful hour of sitting to witness their form of dancing meditation. This was a completely new way of experiencing the Holy and many of us found it both impressive and spiritual. You might want to google Whirling dervish to learn a bit more about this form of spirituality.

I don’t think that I have mentioned the shopping yet! Like any group of tourists we have been scouring every stall and shop to find the perfect souvenirs. We have also been treated to a jewellery making shop profiling the fine turquoise from Turkey, a carpet shop where many of us dropped quite a few Lyra with carpets for home, and a pottery shop. Each of these were good lectures on the process and the product and the owners were rewarded by our support of the Turkish economy!!!!

Today will be a leisurely day – a tour around Antayla and then the afternoon to explore or relax by the pool and seaside. This tour is such a gift to explore another culture and to connect with our religious roots all the while doing it with a great group of travellers.

Sorry that I have not posted for a couple of days – between long and tiring days and poor internet connections I just couldn’t blog. So now I have a lot of catching up to do. The bus is leaving soon so this will be quick.

We are all well – and feeling the healthy tension between excitement about so much to see and do and sensory and memory overload. Our tour guide is pumping our heads full of information about the religious and cultural history of Turkey. What an amazing country it is. As the bridge between Asia and Europe it has been, and remains an important thoroughfare for trade – both of goods and ideologies.

For me the highlight of Ankara, the capital city, was our visit to the tomb of Ataturk. He was a leader who brought Turkey into the 20th Century with reforms that brought sweeping language and cultural change to the country. He is very highly regarded by most in the country although, according to our guide, the fanatical Muslims who are now in power are doing what they can to undo his important work.

We spent two days in Cappadoci. If you have never heard, or seen picture of it, you must google it. It is an amazing place – like no where else on earth. Highlights there were (not the poor internet!!) a tour of the ancient towns and cities now open-air museums showing how the people lived in caves. This was a very important Christian area and there were many churches carved into caves with ancient frescoes painted in natural colours. As well we toured the underground city – a complete community carved into the soft rock of the area – they could house up to 3000 people and they could survive underground for up to three months with food, water (and wine of course) stored underground. For many of us the most memorable highlight was an early morning hot air balloon ride over the fairy chimneys and valleys of Cappadicoa. Have we got pictures to show you of that.

We have a couple of farmers in our group and they have enjoyed the bus ride through the “bread basket of Turkey”. They don’t farm here like they do at home!

Yesterday we arrived in Konya and toured the mausoleum of the Sufi mystic Rumi. I have enjoyed his poetry in recent years so it was interesting to learn more about him. This morning we head further south and by nightfall we will be at the resort town of Antayla the Mediterranean. On route we will stop at several of the ancient sites for early Christian cities. Another great day ahead of us.

Today was our first major drive across the countryside. We left Istanbul at 8:00 am and got to experience a little of Istanbul traffic but it was not too bad as there were still some things closed due to yesterday’s election. The highways and roads here have been impressive in their good state of repair.

Our guide is very much in support of the Social Democratic position and so was very disappointed by the results of the election. He is quite vocal about his displeasure concerning the fanatical Muslims that are in power now. Other than his morning comments we have heard very little about the local news. I am sure you folks at home have heard more about the Turkish election results than we have – such is the life of the tourist.

Our destination today is Ankara which is the capital city of Turkey. Like Istanbul it is a busy, bustling centre of commerce and business but as the capital is is also a centre for governance. We arrived in the city around 3:00 and our only stop of the day was a visit to the Anatolian Civilizations Museum which offered an impressive display of archeological finds from local digs. The artifacts were from as early as the 7th Century BCE. Tomorrow we will visit the Mausoleum of Ataturk – the liberator of Turkey. He plays a very significant role in the modern history of Turkey.

The weather? Sunny and warm. The scenery? We drove through an agricultural area where almond trees bloomed on the hillside while snow capped mountains offered a backdrop. It is a rolling rugged landscape through this area.

Tonight we will gather after dinner for our first worship service together since our arrival. I will write again tomorrow – all being well!

Today is Election Day in Turkey. Before leaving home many people commented to us about “being safe”. In the early days of our planning some folks decided to not travel with us as they did not think it would be safe here. Well, so far the only impact the election has had on our plans is that some of the venues we wanted to visit today were closed. Because we ended up with some spare time we went to visit Taksim Square. This is the open square and park area where there were protests some time ago. It was in the news around the world. Today the square was filled with people out enjoying the sunshine and visiting with friends and neighbours. It was a lively, active, and very peaceful place to spend a little time while soaking in the life and culture of the everyday Turks. And yes, dear Canadian friends, we felt completely safe!

Earlier in the day we visited Kariye Museum which is located in what was the Church of the Holy Saviour. This church was built in the 11th century and was decorated in the 14th century with the most beautiful Byzantine mosaics and frescoes. These incredible artistic renderings show the life stages of the Virgin Mary and the ministry of Jesus. In the 16th Century the church was converted into a mosque and the mosaics were covered in plaster. In the 19th century they were uncovered but were then covered up again by action of the Turkish government. Interestingly, it was American archeologists who restored the mosaics during World War 2 and it became a museum in 1947. We craned our necks and squinted at the ceiling to see these incredibly beautiful works of art.

Following the trip to the museum we spent an hour and a half straddling the continents of Asia and Europe. How would we do that? Well, we took a boat cruise on the Bosphorus Sea and in so doing drifted between the two continents. The Bosphorous is a narrow body of water that separates Europe and Asia. As we basked in the sunshine on the upper deck of the boat we saw beautiful old buildings from centuries past, the lovely summer villas that hug the shore line and the rounding domes of the many mosques that fill the Istanbul skyline . We even saw a dolphin leaping about in the water!

The boat cruise was followed by a delicious fish lunch (yes, the whole fish from head to tail sat there on my plate!) at a charming restaurant up a narrow alley filled with charming fish restaurants. What a great experience.

Tonight we are off to a folklore dinner and show. This will be interesting – I hope they don’t ask for audience participation when it is time for the belly dancing. Now here is the kicker – tonight we lose an hour’s sleep as it is time to turn the clocks for Daylight Savings time! It seem like cruel and unusual treatment to put us through a second change to day-light savings time having done this earlier in the month at home. Tomorrow we leave Istanbul and move to the capital city of Ankara. We will be out of the city and seeing some countryside. I can hardly wait to see what the regions of Turkey look like.